From South Korea to north Canberra, a delicious dream comes true for the happiest chef | HerCanberra

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From South Korea to north Canberra, a delicious dream comes true for the happiest chef

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If you have found yourself searching for truly wholesome online content in Canberra this year – not to mention delicious Korean flavours – then you might have already come across Canberra’s sweetest chef, Dean Han.

This year Dean opened a small café from which to serve the people of Canberra the food that comes from his birthplace of Seoul – and from his heart.

He creates casual authentic Korean food, big on flavour, cooked with care, and served with an earnest enthusiasm that is regularly captured on his Instagram and which has earned him a new and dedicated fan base.

Zero Complex has only been open since mid-year, but most weekends you’d be hard-pressed to find a seat as people settle in for their share of Crabmeat Scramble (Blue Swimmer Crab scrambled eggs with chilli crisp, crispy shallots, Asian greens, and Gochujang mayo on sourdough) or Kimchi Pancakes (homemade Napa Kimchi with poached egg, Kewpie mayo, Korean BBQ sauce and greens).

Just a selection of our recent reconnaissance mission to try everything on the Zero Complex menu. The kimchi pancake (top right corner) barely lasted a minute…

As he busies himself over his sizzling bulgogi beef or preps more of his crispy fried Korean chicken, Dean invariably has a smile on his face. Because he is doing what he truly loves.

He chose the name Zero Complex because it represents two key ideas.

“First, it means simple and unburdened – a place where people don’t need to feel intimidated by the unfamiliar concept of a fusion Korean café. There is no ‘complex’ to understand, just food that feels approachable and enjoyable.

“Second, it reflects a very personal journey. As a Korean chef living in Australia, I’ve cooked many different cuisines, but I always carried a strong desire to return to Korean cuisine. I also carried doubt. Knowing Korean food so deeply, I questioned myself more than anyone else – can I truly cook Korean food? Am I ready to cook it in my own voice? Zero Complex represents overcoming that inner doubt and starting from zero, without fear or hesitation – cooking Korean food honestly, confidently, and freely.”

Dean’s spicy pork has many fans. Photo by Danny Ma

Dean’s journey to the kitchen has not been without sacrifice and upheaval. A bright student with loving parents who pushed their son to do his best, Dean found himself somewhat corralled into a university course studying primary education.

“My mum wanted me to be a doctor or a pharmacist. When I went to teaching school, she was happy, but I was not. I was scared of not being able to control the kids and felt the pressure to set a good example for them. I really wanted to be in the kitchen. I felt I was living a lie.”

Eventually, at age 21, Dean summoned the courage to make clear his intentions to train as a chef to his parents. It did not go down well. “We had a very big argument.”

Then Dean packed up his textbooks and set about starting at the bottom of the food industry. He washed dishes, scrubbed pots and worked 16-hour days for low wages. He spent two years in hotels before serving two years cooking staff meals during his military service.

If you have never experienced the chewy sweet experience of hotteok (paired here with matcha ice cream) then you neeeeed to get on it.

Then, in 2008, he took an even braver step, saying goodbye to his family and taking a gamble on creating a new life in Canberra. Dean chose the capital because it wasn’t like Seoul, it was a smaller city where people were more relaxed.

He continued to grow as a chef, working at Hotel Realm, Tilley’s and then with the Chairman Group. His wife Anna, meanwhile, was working as a florist with her own business.

He took the plunge to set up his own restaurant, Tokyo Canteen, in Kingston. Just a few weeks later, and by this stage with a family to support, Covid struck. Pivoting to takeaway, Dean made it through those tough months before selling up and becoming the full-time carer to their three daughters while Anna worked full-time in her business.

The move to set up another business this year was not without deep thought. And Dean knew he wanted to cook the food of his childhood. “I have mastered many cuisines, Japanese, Chinese, European, but Korean food is in my blood.”

It seems the timing was just right this time, as the arrival of Zero Complex in Braddon is part of a broader wave of K-culture (K-Pop, Korean food, fashion and beauty) surging throughout the world.

It seems like everyone wants a taste of Dean’s Bunsik (Tteokbokki, kimbap, assorted tempura vegetables, kimchi and miso soup) or his Hotteok (sweet pancakes filled with brown sugar and cinnamon with seeds, berries, and matcha ice cream).

“I am genuinely shocked by how popular it has become and how much Canberrans are loving Korean food.”

Dean does, however, give credit to his gifted social media team, who have filmed his every dish, every smile, and every wholesome interaction for Instagram.

Dean Han by Danny Ma. Creating wholesome content for Canberra.

Danny Ma is the man behind the account and says Dean is a dream to work with.

“Yes, he really is that sweet and down-to-earth and he is up for anything I suggest.”

The café’s growing social media following is as much about Dean’s authentic love for cooking as it is the deliciousness of the dishes he presents.

Danny is just as relieved as Dean that Dean is spending his time grading cuts of beef and calculating measurements instead of grading students and calculating math equations.

“I am very relieved he ditched teaching! He’d be so miserable. Cooking is his passion, and it is what lights him up. I am just happy to be there to film it and share it with the public.”

THE ESSENTIALS

What: Zero Complex
Where: 132/24 Lonsdale Street Braddon
When: 7 am to 2.30 pm Monday to Friday
Web: 8 am – 2.30 pm Saturday – Sunday

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